Some places earn their reputation. Cave Creek Canyon is one of them.

Nestled in the Chiricahua Mountains of southeastern Arizona — 150 miles east of Tucson, 50 miles north of Douglas, and a few miles from Rodeo, New Mexico — Cave Creek Canyon is what many visitors call Arizona's Yosemite. Towering formations of lichen-crusted rhyolite frame the canyon entrance. A year-round stream winds through the bottom. The birding is world famous. And the camping, from developed sites to dispersed pullouts, runs the full spectrum from civilized to genuinely wild.

We visited April 30–May 3, 2026 — a four-day loop through the canyon that hit everything from a rainstorm at Sunny Flat to a waterfall campsite at Herb Martyr to dispersed camping on Pinery Creek at 6,160 feet.

The Setting — A Sky Island Biodiversity Hotspot

Cave Creek Canyon is one of Conservation International's 34 Global Biodiversity Hotspots. It provides habitat for approximately 370 species of birds, 170 species of butterflies, hundreds of plant species and over 70 species of mammals including ocelots, collared peccaries, mountain lions, coatis, black bears, ringtails, and white-tailed deer. The Chiricahua Fox Squirrel — a subspecies of the Mexican Fox Squirrel found nowhere else in the world — lives here. So does the Elegant Trogon, a spectacularly colored bird from Mexico that draws birders from around the world specifically to this canyon.

The mountains themselves formed through volcanic eruptions spanning 35 to 25 million years ago. The last major eruption laid down 2,000 feet of volcanic ash that fused into welded rhyolite tuff. Subsequent erosion carved the canyon system and the rock spires and columns that rise out of the forest on every side.

Portal — The Gateway

The tiny community of Portal sits at the mouth of Cave Creek Canyon — a handful of structures including the Portal Peak Lodge Store and Cafe, some rental cabins, and the Portal Store where you can ask about current birding opportunities and backyard feeding stations open to visitors. We stopped at the Portal Peak Lodge for dinner on our first evening — sandwiches and pizza at the outdoor tables as a storm was rolling in. The place was busy. Outside seating was ample and the food was good. Watch this canyon when weather is building — the storms here are dramatic.

Sunny Flat Campground — Night One

We drove to the entrance to South Fork Cave Creek first — a sign said No Camping at the South Fork area next to Sunny Flat. With rain coming and evening approaching we checked out Sunny Flat itself. At the very end of the loop we found a site that was nearly the last one available. It was perfect — a view of the cliffs and canyon, a large slab with ramada, picnic table, and bear box.

We parked the truck, the sprinkles started, and we set up camp. Our Alu-Cab rooftop tent went up quickly. Luca set up his cot and bedding under the ramada. We pulled out our cooler and couple of chairs and watched the rain move through the valley, reading, snacking, and at one point pulling on rain gear to walk and pay our $20 site fee and check the restrooms. The rain continued for six hours.

One of the highlights of the entire trip happened that night. Six good lightning strikes — and the thunder rolled both directions through the canyon. You could hear it split when it hit a side canyon. The sound traveled two ways simultaneously. We didn't record it. Wish we had.

Sunny Flat Campground sits at 5,200 feet, shaded by sycamores, oaks, junipers, and pines despite its name. Year-round drinking water is available. A trail begins near the end of the campground and follows the creek downstream about a mile to the information center. Camping $20, day use $8.

The Sunny Flat Trail — Morning One

Blue sky the next morning. Simple breakfast of muffins and coffee. We had the site until 11 and used the time well — hiking the Sunny Flat Trail before breaking camp.

Along the trail we discovered explosive shacks — small structures built into the stone with rock walls and metal doors. These were storage facilities for explosives used during road construction through the canyon. Interpretive signs along the trail identified native plants. We spotted tall trees including a notable Fremont Cottonwood, large boulders, a group of deer, and heard turkey calls in the distance. We then spotted a wild turkey while checking out Idlewilde Campground — and noted a site there next to a swimming hole worth pinning for a future visit.

South Fork Cave Creek

The South Fork of Cave Creek is one of the premier birding locations in the American Southwest — famous for Elegant Trogons and a regular destination for serious birders during spring and summer. On our visit word was out about a rare bird that many had come specifically to photograph. Rather than birding the South Fork we drove back to the swimming hole at Idlewilde, took a cold dip, and had lunch — egg salad sandwiches on fresh baked bread, chips and salsa, and cold sodas. Better decision.

The Southwestern Research Station

The pavement runs out at the Southwestern Research Center of the American Museum of Natural History — staff occasionally offer public programs. We stopped to browse the store, look at books, and each enjoyed a cup of espresso. Talked with a former ranger on duty. Worth a stop on any visit through the canyon.

Herb Martyr Campground — Night Two

From the research station we took Forest Road 42A approximately four miles to the end of the road — Herb Martyr Campground. Herb Martyr Campground is located at the end of a dirt road in the Cave Creek area — a $15 fee for camping, sites available on a first-come first-served basis. Basic amenities with picnic tables and fire rings. Rustic with no electrical hookups, running water, or modern bathroom facilities.

We selected Site 4 specifically. The reason — just a short distance below was a 12-foot waterfall on Cave Creek. The waterfall was created by a series of rock dams built across the creek — we explored them the next morning and found multiple dams creating a series of pools and small swimming holes along the lower river. We still don't know when they were built or why — to create fishing holes, perhaps, or for water management. The mystery of it was more interesting than any explanation.

We set up camp, Luca practiced rigging his tarp as a rain cover, practicing different setups — he usually sleeps open air and was treating the weather as a training exercise. We gathered firewood from what was available, and enjoyed brats and vegetables around a small fire. A wild turkey walked through camp, crossed the creek, and made its way up the steep hillside. After dinner Luca retired early to his camp structure. Matthew and I sat by the river in the dark, listening to the waterfall.

The next morning I rose early while others slept and hiked back up the canyon with my camera. On return I noticed the campsite by the restrooms — empty the night before — now occupied by a couple watching SpongeBob in their tent. Camp life in all its forms.

After breakfast we took another walk along the lower river — more rock dams, more pools, more of the canyon at its best. Then packed up and moved on.

On Herb Martyr Road

Along FR 42A on the drive in we noticed a trail sign for Crystal Cave and John Hands Waterfall — both looked worth doing. We didn't have time on this trip. Added to the return list.

Herb Martyr campground is named after a Forest Service ranger who worked in the canyon. The Ash Spring Trail leads north across Cima Creek with its riparian forest of sycamores, cypress and fir, to a picturesque old homestead site shaded by large ash trees and watered by a perennial spring.

Rustler Park

We also drove up to Rustler Park on the trans-mountain road — taking FR 42 to Onion Saddle at 7,619 feet then turning onto Rustler Park Road. At 8,400 feet the campground sits in a wildflower-carpeted meadow rimmed with Douglas-fir and ponderosa pine. Around the turn of the century, rustlers concealed stolen stock there while altered brands healed and pursuit cooled.

The Horseshoe 2 Fire started on May 8, 2011 and burned thousands of acres of the rugged Chiricahua Mountains — burning through Rustler Park, taking out the Barfoot Lookout, and moving into Chiricahua National Monument. As of the fire's peak, 116,000 acres had burned. Following the Horseshoe II fire, the campground was rebuilt and some campsites now feature canopies for added shade. The downed trees and fire evidence are still visible — the forest is recovering but the scars remain.

We marked the location as a future camping destination — excellent for night sky viewing given the elevation, darkness and lack of trees. East Turkey Creek and its falls were reportedly flowing, per the ranger on site. The Rustler Park Fire Guard Station was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1934–35 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

We tried to locate Barfoot Lookout from the road during our drive in and out but never spotted it. Later learned why — all is left due to the fire is a foundation and some block walls. The trailhead to Barfoot Lookout is at Barefoot Park, a National Natural Landmark down FR 357 (Pine Canyon Road). The area appears to see limited use — picnic tables in scattered locations, large old foundations, and a small shed behind a fenced meadow. We didn't drive further due to muddy conditions.

Dispersed Camping — FR 42C / Pinery Creek

When leaving Barefoot Park we stopped to talk with a man attending to gear at the roadside. He was from Utah and suggested we check out a road heading from FR 42 near Pinery Creek — marked on Google Maps as 42C / S Downing Pass Road, and on OnX as Methodist Camp. He mentioned the road was great most of the way except for one washed-out section.

We found the washed-out section easily — and knew we were in the right place. A short distance further was an excellent dispersed campsite on Pinery Creek at approximately 6,160 feet. Views of the cliffs on both sides, several established fire rings, firewood available to gather.

The campsite had a large dead tree with holes covering it all the way up — a classic granary tree. Luca spotted a bird pulling something out of one of the holes and flying off. This was our introduction to the Acorn Woodpecker.

The Acorn Woodpecker

The Acorn Woodpecker is one of the most distinctive and fascinating birds in the American West — and the Chiricahua Mountains are prime habitat. Look for a medium-sized woodpecker with a clown-like face pattern — bold red cap, white forehead, black back and wings, white patches visible in flight, and yellow eyes that give it a permanently startled expression. Hard to miss once you've seen one.

What makes the Acorn Woodpecker remarkable is its behavior. It lives in cooperative family groups of up to 15 individuals and is famous for one specific activity — building and maintaining granary trees. The birds drill thousands of individual holes into dead or dying trees, then harvest acorns in fall and wedge them tightly into the holes — each acorn in its own custom-sized hole. A single granary tree can contain up to 50,000 stored acorns and may be used by multiple generations of the same family group for decades.

The group tends the granary constantly — checking holes, moving acorns to better-fitting spots as they dry and shrink, and fiercely defending the whole operation against squirrels, jays, and competing woodpecker groups. Watching one work a granary tree is watching a system that evolved over millions of years operating in real time. The dead tree at our Pinery Creek campsite had holes all the way up. We watched the occupants work it throughout our stay.

We set up camp, gathered firewood, had a late lunch of sandwiches. After dark we enjoyed the campfire for hours. Luca set up his cot next to the fire in open air. Matthew and I stepped away briefly — and heard a loud scurry and splashing across the river. Something had jumped across. Luca, half asleep, was startled fully awake. We never identified the animal. My trail cam had been set up across the creek for exactly this moment — but had failed due to low battery infrared. New batteries, no IR. Frustrating.

The next morning Luca and I hiked up off-trail from camp — from 6,160 feet up to some cliffs at approximately 6,400 feet on Downing Pass. Views of the camp below from above. Pools of water with thick moss beds. Cactus in flower. Birds. Black-colored lizards. Cut-down power poles and a broken one-foot-wide ceramic insulator. A large rock that looked like petrified wood — still not sure. After descending we walked the road back, then took a dip in the river before packing up.

A Carved Cave

On the way out we stopped at a cave noted on the drive in. Ground squirrels were chasing each other around the parking area. A short walk led to a cave carved into the rock with a metal door frame. Inside — a wood-built air vent system, evidence of an old campfire, and a bat roosting in the dark. A place with obvious history, unclear purpose. Worth the stop.

A Note on Leave No Trace

At our Pinery Creek dispersed site we found bags of human waste left on the riverbank. If you cannot dig a proper cat hole, going on the ground away from water is still preferable to bagging waste and leaving it at a campsite. Please pack out your waste properly or use Leave No Trace methods. This is a beautiful and rarely visited canyon system — it deserves better.

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