McDowell Mountain Regional Park sits just four miles outside of Fountain Hills, roughly an hour northeast of Phoenix — close enough to be accessible on a weekend, far enough into the desert that the city fades quickly. We spent two nights here in March 2015 — Luca and I — and got the full range of what this park offers, from an unexpected parking lot night to a proper desert camping experience, a bee swarm encounter on the trail, and a coyote that came far too close.

The Park — 21,000 Acres of Sonoran Desert

McDowell Mountain Regional Park, nestled in the lower Verde River basin, is a 21,099-acre desert jewel in the northeast Valley. Elevations in the park rise to 3,000 feet along the western boundary at the base of the McDowell Mountains. The park contains the remains of several Hohokam hunting and gathering sites within its boundaries. In 1865, Camp McDowell was founded on the west bank of the Verde River — remaining a permanent military post until 1890 and the only fort inside present boundaries of Maricopa County. Due to the presence of Camp McDowell and the protection it offered, settlement in the Salt River Valley became permanent.

Night One — The Staging Area

The campground was full when we arrived. We were placed in the McDowell Mountain Staging Area — a parking lot between RVs, not exactly what either of us had pictured. One neighbor had the TV going all night with the door open. Desert camping in a parking lot between two RVs with someone else's television as the soundtrack is an experience. We made the best of it.

The saving grace of that first night came after dark. A coyote came within ten feet of us — unhurried, completely unbothered, moving through the staging area like it owned the space. Which, in any meaningful ecological sense, it does. The coyote reminded us why we were there regardless of the sleeping arrangements. We watched it move through and disappear into the desert dark.

Night Two — Ironwood Picnic Area and Campground, Site 2

The second night was exactly what the first was not. Ironwood tent camping area: thirteen primitive sites with nearby restrooms and water. Site 2 at Ironwood is a proper tent site in the desert — open sky, Sonoran Desert all around, and none of the parking lot energy of the night before. We cooked dinner on the backpacking stove both nights — simple, efficient, and the right tool for the kind of camping we were doing. A non-venomous snake moved through camp at one point — observed and left alone.

The Hike — View from the Top

We don't remember the exact trail name — McDowell Mountain has over 40 miles of interconnecting trails ranging from 0.5 to 15.3 miles, rated easy to moderate, all multi-use for hikers, bikers, and horses. What we remember is the route took us across the top of a mountain or hill with open views in every direction. From the top we could see the Fountain Hills fountain going off in the distance — the 560-foot jet visible from miles away on a clear March day. The surrounding mountain ranges spread out in every direction — the McDowells, the Mazatzals, Four Peaks, the Superstitions. The kind of desert panorama that reminds you how much geography there is in the greater Phoenix area when you get above it.

Along the hike we spotted a jackrabbit in the desert scrub. We found mushrooms growing in the shade of fallen trees — unexpected in the desert but not unheard of after winter moisture. We noticed large patches of iron ore in the sand — the reddish-black mineral common in the volcanic geology of this range. A tiny egg resting on a tiny plant — lizard, we thought, though we never confirmed it.

The Bee Swarm

Midway through the hike we heard a swarm of bees approaching — the distinctive low roar of thousands of insects moving together. I told Luca to get down low to the ground immediately. We both crouched down. The swarm flew directly over us and continued on without stopping. That's the right response to an approaching bee swarm in the desert — get low, stay still, don't swat. The bees were gone in seconds. Luca was wide-eyed. We both were.

The Fountain Hills Fountain

A park note worth mentioning — the view of the Fountain Hills fountain from the park's elevated trails is one of those unexpected bonuses of hiking McDowell. The fountain operates at scheduled times and is visible from miles away. At 560 feet it was once the world's tallest fountain. Worth timing your hike to coincide with a fountain activation if you can — check the Fountain Hills fountain schedule online before your visit.

The Trails

McDowell Mountain Regional Park offers over 50 miles of multi-use trails. Trails range in length from 0.5 miles to 15.3 miles and in difficulty from easy to strenuous. Primary trails include: Pemberton Loop at 15.3 miles with 667-foot elevation gain, Scenic Trail at 4.5 miles with 272-foot elevation gain, Escondido Trail at 6.2 miles with 284-foot elevation gain, Granite Trail at 2.5 miles with 332-foot elevation gain, and North Loop at 2.9 miles with 138-foot elevation gain. All trails interconnect — an almost infinite variety of loop combinations is possible.

The McDowell Mountain Competitive Track consists of three interconnected tracks: the Long Loop for general riders, the Sport Loop for intermediate and advanced riders, and the Technical Loop for expert riders.

Camping Options

McDowell Mountain Regional Park offers 76 individual sites for tent or RV camping. Each site has a large parking area to accommodate up to a 45-foot RV and is a developed site with water and electrical hookups, dump station, a picnic table, and a barbecue fire ring. All restrooms offer flush toilets and showers.

Ironwood tent camping area: 13 primitive sites with nearby restrooms and water. Three-acre group campground: room for up to 30 RVs or tents. Minks Camp and Eagle Camp: small primitive camps. McDowell Mountain Staging Area: overflow camping when the main campground is full — essentially a large parking area.

If the campground is full and you're offered the staging area, be aware it is a parking lot experience — functional but not what most campers are looking for. Request Ironwood or the primitive sites if available.

More Information

• Entry fee: $7/vehicle — Maricopa County Regional Parks Annual Pass accepted

• E.I. Rowland Campground: 76 developed sites — water, electric hookups, flush toilets, showers — reservations via maricopacountyparks.net

• Ironwood Tent Area: 13 primitive sites — nearby restrooms and water — tent camping only

• McDowell Mountain Staging Area: overflow parking lot camping — not a desirable alternative to the main campground; request Ironwood or primitive sites if Rowland is full

• Group campground: up to 30 units — reservation required

• Minks Camp and Eagle Camp: small primitive camps

• Nature Center: free with park entry — trail maps, wildlife exhibits

• Competitive mountain bike tracks: Long Loop, Sport Loop, Technical Loop — also open to runners and horses

• No firearms in the park

Contact

McDowell Mountain Regional Park

16300 McDowell Mountain Park Drive, Fountain Hills, AZ 85268

(602) 506-2930 ext. 3 maricopacountyparks.net/mcdowell-mountain-regional-park

Hours 6:00 AM–8:00 PM daily (hours vary seasonally — confirm before visiting)

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