Standing at 7,165 feet above the Sierra Ancha wilderness, McFadden Peak offers something rare in central Arizona — genuine remoteness combined with genuine history. The peak is one of only two fire lookout sites in the Sierra Ancha range. The views from the top are continuous and expansive in every direction. And the history embedded in the name of this mountain connects directly to one of the bloodiest and most dramatic episodes in Arizona's territorial past.

The Sierra Ancha

The Sierra Ancha is one of Arizona's least visited wilderness areas — a rugged, deeply canyoned mountain range rising between the Salt River arm of Roosevelt Lake and the community of Young in Pleasant Valley. The Sierra Ancha's blessing and curse is that it is so remote. McFadden Peak is 67 miles as the buzzard flies from the Phoenix metro area, but it takes three hours to drive there. The only improved road — and half of it is dirt — is AZ-288, which runs from the east end of Roosevelt Lake to the hamlet of Young, then continues as FR 512 north to AZ-260 on the Mogollon Rim, just east of Woods Canyon Lake.

That remoteness is exactly what draws people who know about it — and keeps the crowds away from those who don't.

The Pleasant Valley War

You may know the Sierra Ancha better as the site of the Pleasant Valley War, a classic cattlemen versus sheepherders feud that resulted in dozens of deaths from 1882 to 1892. The feud only ended when there was but one man left alive. Young, just north of McFadden Peak, was at the center of the feud.

The Pleasant Valley War had the highest number of fatalities of such range conflicts in United States history, with an estimated total of 35 to 50 deaths, and the near annihilation of the males of the two feuding families. The conflict involved two feuding families — the Grahams and the Tewksburys — along with cattlemen associations, sheepmen, hired guns, cowboys, and Arizona lawmen. The feud lasted for about a decade, with its most deadly incidents between 1886 and 1887. The Pleasant Valley War gave Arizona Territory a reputation for not being ready for statehood, which would not occur until 1912.

William McFadden and the Circle Ranch

The peak bears the name of William McFadden — a man who came to the Sierra Ancha to escape the very feud that defined this region. McFadden had been part of a vigilante group during the Pleasant Valley War. After the violence subsided he settled in the Sierra Anchas, started the Circle Ranch on McFadden Creek, and tried to put the feud behind him. The mountain above his ranch carries his name today.

The Fire Lookout

The first lookout on McFadden Peak, located on the Pleasant Valley Ranger District of the Tonto National Forest, was a 20-foot steel tower with a 7x7-foot cab built in 1929. In the 1930s a cabin, stock barn, and shed were added. These buildings were removed in 1964 when the present 10-foot concrete base and cab were installed. McFadden Peak is one of two active fire lookout sites in the Sierra Ancha — the other is Aztec Peak. The lookout remains an active fire detection station during fire season. If staffed, the lookout may be open to visitors — the views from the cab itself are exceptional.

The Hike

The hike is 2.9 miles round trip with 777 feet of accumulated elevation gain. From the trailhead at the locked gate follow Forest Road 561 west approximately 1 mile to the summit. The road-trail gains elevation steadily and consistently — not technical, but sustained enough to earn the views at the top. Trailhead elevation is 6,349 feet. Summit elevation is 7,165 feet.

The views from the top sweep in all directions — the Sierra Ancha wilderness to the west, Pleasant Valley to the north, the Mogollon Rim country beyond, and the Tonto Basin and Roosevelt Lake reservoir country to the south. On a clear day the expanse of central Arizona's high country is on full display.

Wildlife and Vegetation

The Sierra Ancha supports a full complement of central Arizona mountain wildlife. Mountain lion and black bear inhabit the range — be aware and store food properly. Wild turkey, deer, and elk are present throughout. Smaller mammals work the forest floor.

The vegetation transitions through elevation — ponderosa pine and Gambel oak in the upper reaches, pinyon and juniper lower down, with scrub oak and manzanita filling the understory throughout. Wildflowers bloom along the road-trail in spring and after summer monsoon rains.

Nearby — Workman Creek Falls

Workman Creek Waterfalls plunge 200 feet in a canyon south of Young — to get there, go south 21 miles on AZ-288, then turn left 3.2 miles on Forest Road 487 at the sign for Workman Creek Recreation Area, Sierra Ancha Wilderness. The turnoff is between mileposts 284 and 285. A gate 2.6 miles in is closed December 15 through March 31. Worth adding to any McFadden Peak trip.

Reynolds Creek Group Site

Groups can contact the Pleasant Valley Ranger District to reserve Reynolds Creek Group Site at 5,200 feet elevation, 19 miles south of Young. It is a good base for exploring the Salome and Sierra Ancha Wilderness Areas and a worthwhile spot for enjoying the creek and wildlife — there is a fee but no potable water.

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