Some places get better with a story behind them. Verde Hot Springs has one of the best.

Back in the 1920s, a sliver of the banks of the Verde River was converted into the Verde Hot Springs Resort to attract tourists to this remote desert oasis. The hot springs hotel was built in 1922 and was famous for years — a genuine luxury destination in a canyon so remote that getting there was itself an adventure.

In the 1960s, a fire swept along the banks of the Verde River and destroyed most of the resort. The area was abandoned, leaving behind only concrete foundations and the thermal pools themselves. What survived the fire has been surviving the decades ever since — and the pools still work.

The Hot Springs

There are two hot springs areas to soak at Verde. The first is an art gallery-filled square tub at 102°F. The second is an outside deeper pool next to the river at 99°F. The smaller spring is housed within the last nearly-intact structure on the abandoned resort — large enough for three or four adults. There is no roof, and no windows, although a doorway and all four walls remain. These walls are wildly decorated with art and inscriptions dating back decades, ranging from the inspirational to the commemorative.

The Hike In

The hike to the hot spring is quite easy — about two and a half miles long with only about 200 feet of elevation gain. Hikers of all skill levels will be able to complete it. Concrete steps lead down to the springs in the final few feet of the route. Once you park at the camping area, it is about a mile and a half hike to the resort area.

The River Crossing

This is the part that stops some people. Even in the lowest water levels, it is necessary to be thigh-deep in the river. If the water rises, the depth can be dangerous — check the weather a few days in advance and have the courage to turn back if necessary. In winter and spring the Verde can be cold and running high. Check conditions before you commit to the crossing.

Childs Power Plant & Camping

The Childs Power Plant ran for more than 90 years from 1908 to 2004. Now there are ruins of the old power plant, as well as a dispersed camping area where people can camp free — limited to 5 days. There are no amenities except a vault toilet — pack all trash out. Verde Hot Springs is located approximately 28 miles southeast of Camp Verde or 19 miles west of Strawberry.

A few things to know before you go: Nudity is prohibited by the Forest Service — bring a swimsuit. Dogs are welcome but must be leashed and are not allowed in the hot springs pools themselves. The road in is long, rough, and unforgiving after rain.

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